Frequently asked questions

You generally need a residence card (在留カード), a Japanese address, and often a Japanese phone number and a personal seal (hanko) or signature. Some banks also ask for a My Number, and a few require six months of residency before opening. Online banks (Rakuten Bank, Sony Bank) and English-friendly banks (SMBC Trust Bank PRESTIA) are common starting points. Requirements differ by bank, so confirm on the provider’s page before applying.

SMBC Trust Bank PRESTIA and Sony Bank are the most commonly cited for English-language service, apps, and foreign-currency features. Rakuten Bank and SBI Shinsei Bank offer partial English support. Megabanks have limited English at most branches. If English support is essential, verify the current app language and support hours on the bank’s official site, because these change.

Online banks (Rakuten Bank, Sony Bank, SBI) usually win on lower fees, better apps, and integration with points and investing. Megabanks (MUFG, SMBC, Mizuho) help when you need physical branches, corporate accounts, or dealings that still expect a major bank. Many residents keep both: a megabank for salary or official uses, and an online bank for daily money and saving.

Common reasons are an expired residence card or out-of-date registered information, suspected fraud or unusual activity, dormancy, or anti-money-laundering checks. Keep your address and residency status updated with the bank, respond promptly to identity-verification requests, and avoid receiving unexplained large transfers. If restricted, contact the bank directly — never through a link in an unexpected message.

Yes, employment is usually not required to open a basic deposit account — a residence card and address are the core requirements. Students and dependents routinely open accounts. Employment matters more for credit cards and loans than for opening a bank account itself. Requirements vary, so check the specific bank.

Yes. Approval depends on stable income and residency, not nationality — but your foreign credit history does not transfer, so you start fresh. Accessible first cards include Rakuten Card and Epos Card. Longer residency, a stable job, and having a Japanese bank account improve your odds. A longer-validity residence card also helps.

Usual reasons are short employment history, unverifiable or low income, too many recent applications, or a thin or negative credit record (CIC/JICC). Nationality itself is not a listed reason. Next steps: wait a few months, apply to a more accessible issuer, ensure your income documents are clear, and avoid multiple simultaneous applications. You can request your own credit report from CIC or JICC.

リボ払い (revolving payment) spreads your balance into small monthly payments while charging high effective interest — often around 15% a year. It is sometimes on by default or promoted with point bonuses. For most people it is best avoided: choose 一括払い (pay in full) each month so you pay no interest. Check your card’s payment setting and switch off automatic revolving if you did not intend it.

Many residents start with an ecosystem card that is easy to approve and easy to redeem: Rakuten Card (no annual fee, strong Rakuten points) or Epos Card (no annual fee, instant issuance at Marui, useful discounts) are common examples. The best first card is usually the one tied to where you already shop, pay bills, and bank. Confirm current fees and terms on the issuer’s site.

Only if you actually use the benefits. Annual-fee cards can pay for themselves through travel insurance, airport-lounge access, higher point multipliers, or concierge services — but if you would not otherwise use those, a no-annual-fee card is better. Add up the concrete value you will use in a year and compare it to the fee.

Generally yes, if you are a tax resident of Japan (with a My Number) and at least 18. NISA is tied to residency, not citizenship, so most foreign residents qualify — with two big cautions: US citizens and green-card holders face US tax complications with Japanese funds, and NISA generally cannot continue after you leave Japan. Confirm eligibility and the current rules on the FSA site and with your chosen brokerage.

NISA is a benefit for residents. When you lose Japanese tax residency you generally cannot keep contributing, and brokerages differ on whether the account is closed, frozen, or must be sold — some allow a temporary overseas-resident continuation for limited periods. Because the tax treatment of unwinding matters, plan your exit before building a large balance and ask your brokerage about their specific offshore policy.

Be very careful. Japanese mutual funds and ETFs are usually PFICs (Passive Foreign Investment Companies) for US tax, which triggers punitive US taxation and heavy Form 8621 reporting — and the NISA tax exemption does not apply to the US. Many US persons in Japan avoid Japanese pooled funds and instead hold US-domiciled assets, but rules are complex. Get advice from a cross-border US/Japan tax professional before investing.

They solve different problems. NISA is flexible: tax-free growth and you can withdraw anytime, making it the usual first choice. iDeCo gives a larger up-front tax break (contributions cut your taxable income) but locks money until age 60 and suits committed retirement saving. Many use NISA first for flexibility, then add iDeCo for the deduction if they are confident they will not need the money before 60. If you may leave Japan, iDeCo’s lock-up is a bigger drawback.

This is education, not a recommendation. Most beginners research low-cost, broadly diversified index funds — for example all-country (全世界株式) or S&P 500 trackers — rather than picking individual stocks, because low fees and diversification are within your control while returns are not. Understand that values fall as well as rise, match the risk to your time horizon, and never invest money you may need soon.

For tax, Japan classifies you as non-resident, non-permanent resident, or permanent resident — separate from your immigration status. Broadly: non-residents are taxed only on Japan-source income; non-permanent residents (in Japan under 5 of the last 10 years, without permanent intent) are taxed on Japan-source income plus foreign income paid in or remitted to Japan; permanent residents (for tax) are taxed on worldwide income. This affects foreign income and investments, so confirm your category with the NTA or a tax accountant.

Many employees do not, because tax is settled by year-end adjustment (年末調整). You generally must file (確定申告) if you have side income over ¥200,000, two or more employers, self-employment income, sizeable investment or crypto gains, or you want to claim deductions like large medical costs or a first-year mortgage credit. Filing season is Feb 16 – Mar 15 via e-Tax. When unsure, check the NTA guidance or ask a 税理士.

Resident tax (住民税, about 10%) is charged the year after the income is earned, based on the previous year’s income. So in your first year you often pay little, and in your second year you get a bill for your full first-year income. The same lag means people who stop working or leave Japan can still owe resident tax afterward. Budget for it in advance.

Furusato Nozei (ふるさと納税) lets you donate to local governments and receive local gifts (food, goods) while deducting almost all of the donation from your resident and income tax — you effectively pay ¥2,000 out of pocket for the gifts. It is worth it for most taxpayers with sufficient income, up to a limit based on your income and family situation. Use the official rules and a limit simulator, and keep the paperwork (One-Stop or tax return) to claim the deduction.

Crypto profits are treated as miscellaneous income (雑所得) and taxed at your marginal rate — combined with resident tax this can reach roughly 55%, unlike the ~20% flat rate for listed stocks. Every disposal is taxable, including selling for yen, trading one crypto for another, and spending crypto on goods. You must track cost basis and calculate gains, so recordkeeping tools are important, and larger activity often warrants a tax accountant.

File a notification of business opening (開業届) with your local tax office within about a month of starting — it is free and short. At the same time, file the blue-return application (青色申告承認申請書) to unlock the up-to-¥650,000 deduction. You keep your existing visa status if it permits the work; some visa types need permission for self-employment, so check your residence status first.

The blue return is a filing status that rewards proper bookkeeping. With double-entry books filed electronically, you can deduct up to ¥650,000 from your income, carry losses forward for three years, and deduct family salaries. The trade-off is more disciplined recordkeeping — which cloud accounting software largely automates. For most freelancers with steady income, the tax saving clearly outweighs the effort.

It depends on your clients. Registering gives you a T-number so business clients can claim consumption-tax input credits on what they pay you — but it also makes you a consumption-tax payer, adding cost and paperwork. If your clients are consumers or tax-exempt small businesses, registering may add cost for no benefit. If your clients are companies that demand qualified invoices, not registering can cost you work. Weigh your client base; a transitional credit for buyers from unregistered suppliers is stepping down over time.

A common rule of thumb is to reserve 20–35% of profit for income tax, resident tax, national pension, and national health insurance combined — higher as your income rises, because income tax is progressive. Remember resident tax and health-insurance premiums are billed based on the prior year, so your bills lag your income. Set the reserve aside in a separate account each month rather than facing it all at filing time.

As a sole proprietor you generally enroll in National Health Insurance (国民健康保険) and the National Pension (国民年金), and you pay both yourself — there is no employer split. National Pension is a flat monthly amount; National Health Insurance premiums are income-based and billed by your municipality. You can add optional coverage (e.g. the national pension fund, iDeCo, or income-protection insurance) to close gaps. Budget these into your tax reserve.

For most people public health insurance covers a lot: it caps most medical bills near 30%, and the High-Cost Medical Expense Benefit (高額療養費) further limits your monthly out-of-pocket by income, so even a major illness has a ceiling. Private medical or cancer insurance mainly covers extras (income while off work, advanced treatments, hospital-stay cash). Buy private cover to fill a specific gap you cannot self-fund, not out of general worry.

It is a public system that caps your out-of-pocket medical costs in a calendar month based on your income. If your covered medical bills exceed the monthly ceiling, the excess is reimbursed (or, with a limit-certificate applied in advance, not charged). This is why many residents find heavy private medical insurance unnecessary — the public ceiling already limits catastrophic costs. Confirm the current thresholds, which are set by income bracket.

Life insurance mainly makes sense if someone depends on your income — a partner, children, or dependents with debts like a mortgage. If no one relies on your income, you often do not need it. When you do, term life (定期保険) is usually the cost-efficient choice: it covers a set period for a low premium, versus whole life (終身保険), which bundles savings at higher cost. Public pension also pays survivor benefits, so factor those in before choosing a sum insured.

No — standard fire insurance (火災保険) excludes earthquake damage. Earthquake insurance (地震保険) is a separate, government-backed rider you add to a fire policy, and its payout is capped at a share of the building/contents value (commonly 30–50%). Given Japan’s seismic risk it is worth considering, especially for owners, but understand that it is designed to help you restart life, not fully rebuild. Check limits and exclusions on the policy.

Yes. Residents can generally buy private life, medical, auto, and home insurance; some insurers offer English-language support and applications. Public health and pension enrollment is mandatory regardless of nationality. The practical hurdles are usually language and understanding what public cover already provides. Compare the specific gap you want to fill, and confirm English support and terms with the insurer.

It is harder but possible. Many banks strongly prefer permanent residency; without it you may face a larger required down payment, a Japanese spouse guarantor, or rejection at some lenders. Flat 35, offered via the Japan Housing Finance Agency, is more rules-based and does not always require PR, making it a common route for non-PR residents. Stable long-term employment and income are decisive. Terms vary widely by bank, so compare several.

There is no universal answer. Floating rates (変動) have been lower and reduce early payments but can rise, increasing your payment later. Fixed rates (固定, including Flat 35) cost more now but lock certainty for the term, protecting you if rates rise. Choose based on how much payment-increase risk you can absorb: if a rate rise would strain your budget, the certainty of fixed can be worth the premium. Model both before deciding.

Beyond the down payment, budget roughly 6–10% of the price for closing costs (諸費用): the agent’s brokerage fee, registration and judicial-scrivener fees, loan guarantee and administration fees, stamp duty, acquisition and property taxes, and fire/earthquake insurance. New-build and pre-owned costs differ. These are easy to underestimate, so get an itemized estimate before committing.

It depends on how long you will stay, your job stability, and the specific property. Unlike some countries, many Japanese homes — especially older wooden houses — depreciate, and resale can be slow outside prime areas, so buying is not automatically wealth-building. Renting keeps you flexible, which matters if you might move or leave Japan. Buying can make sense for long-term residents wanting stability who have modeled the full cost and resale risk. Treat a home as shelter first.

Japan has credit information agencies — CIC (cards and installment), JICC, and the bank association’s KSC. You can request your own disclosure from each, usually online or by mail for a small fee. It shows your cards, loans, and any late payments (異動 marks). Checking before a mortgage application helps you spot and resolve problems — like a forgotten missed payment — that could otherwise cause a rejection.

For most personal transfers, specialist services like Wise or Revolut beat traditional bank wires, because they use the mid-market exchange rate with a transparent fee instead of a hidden rate markup. The cheapest option depends on the amount, currency, and destination, so compare the final amount the recipient receives — not the advertised fee. For very large transfers, also check limits and reporting.

The visible transfer fee is often the small part. The bigger cost is the exchange-rate markup — the gap between the rate you are given and the real mid-market rate — which is invisible unless you compare. Bank wires can also add SWIFT charges and intermediary-bank fees deducted along the way. Always compare the total recipient amount against the mid-market rate to see the true cost.

Yes. Banks and services apply their own transfer limits and may require documentation (source of funds, purpose) for large amounts. Transfers at or above a regulatory threshold are reported to authorities, and large or unusual movements can prompt anti-money-laundering questions. There can also be tax angles — gifts, overseas income, or asset movement. For significant sums, confirm the provider’s limits and consider tax advice before sending.

It depends on what it is and your tax residency. Foreign salary or business income can be taxable, and for non-permanent residents even foreign-source income becomes taxable to the extent it is paid in or remitted to Japan. Gifts and inheritances have their own rules. Simply receiving your own savings is different from receiving income. Because this is fact-specific, confirm with the NTA or a tax accountant rather than assuming it is tax-free.

They are useful if you regularly deal in more than one currency — holding balances, spending abroad, or receiving foreign payments — because they cut FX markups and let you convert at good rates. They are not full replacements for a Japanese bank account (you still need one for salary, rent auto-pay, and many domestic services). Many residents use them alongside a local bank. Check current fees, limits, and deposit protection.

Pick the one that matches where you already spend and bank. If you shop on Rakuten and use Rakuten Bank/Card, the Rakuten ecosystem compounds; if you use docomo, d POINT fits; PayPay suits heavy code-payment and Yahoo/SoftBank users; V POINT ties to SMBC. Concentrating on one strong ecosystem beats spreading thin across several, because bonuses stack when your card, payments, and shopping align.

Most major points (Rakuten, PayPay, d, V) are worth about ¥1 each when spent on everyday purchases, which makes them easy to value. Some points are worth more when converted to airline miles under the right redemption, and less when locked to a single store or close to expiry. As a rule, treat ¥1 as the baseline and be skeptical of “inflated” valuations that assume perfect redemption.

Many do. Some points expire a fixed period after earning; others (like campaign or “limited-time” points) expire much sooner than regular points. To avoid losing them, concentrate on one ecosystem so balances stay active, spend limited-time points quickly on everyday items, and check the expiry rules in the app. Do not spend more just to “use up” points — that defeats the purpose.

They suit different lives. PayPay is a QR-code payment app accepted at huge numbers of small shops and convenience stores, great for on-the-spot everyday spending and Yahoo/SoftBank users. Rakuten is a broader ecosystem (shopping, bank, card, mobile, securities) that rewards consolidating your spending online and across services. If your spending is mostly in-person and small, PayPay is convenient; if you buy online and want compounding across services, Rakuten tends to reward loyalty more.

Only exchanges registered with the Financial Services Agency (FSA) and belonging to the JVCEA may legally serve residents of Japan — examples include bitFlyer, bitbank, and Coincheck. Using an unregistered offshore exchange means you lose Japanese legal and consumer protections and can complicate tax and withdrawals. Always confirm an exchange is on the FSA’s registered list before depositing funds.

Crypto gains are miscellaneous income taxed at your marginal income-tax rate plus resident tax — combined this can reach roughly 55% at the top, far above the ~20% flat rate on listed stocks. There is no special low rate and, unlike stocks, no NISA shelter. Every disposal is taxable (selling to yen, crypto-to-crypto swaps, and paying with crypto), so you must calculate gains across all transactions. Keep thorough records and consider a tax accountant for active trading.

Record every transaction with date, type (buy/sell/swap/spend), amounts, the yen value at the time, and fees, because Japan taxes each disposal and you must compute cost basis (commonly the moving-average or total-average method). Exchange CSV exports plus crypto tax-calculation tools help consolidate activity across platforms. Good records are essential if you are ever asked to substantiate your filing.

Domestic retail FX leverage is capped by regulation, commonly at 25x, which limits how large a position your deposit can control. Leverage amplifies both gains and losses, and sharp moves can trigger margin calls or losses beyond your deposit. FX is high-risk and unsuitable for money you cannot lose. Watch for unregulated offshore brokers offering much higher leverage — they remove your protections and are often used in scams.